Nordic Museum

Sweden's National Cultural Museum

The Nordiska Museet (Nordic Museum) is a towering and imposing building  that we’ve walked past many times. “We need to go there” would bring nods of agreement, but we never did visit the museum, that is, until this weekend. 

Completed in 1907 this cathedral-like building contains wide-ranging collections covering Swedish culture from home furnishing, fashion, educational trends and table settings through the centuries (really) to our favorite exhibit, a condensed re-telling of Swedish traditions.

Sweden’s western cultural traditions have been readily recognizable to us.  Christmas, for example, comes with expected rites such as decorated trees, shopping and gift giving.  Lucia, on the other hand, celebrated on 13 December, was a bit of a surprise.  Google cleared up many of our questions about this celebration of a young 4^th century martyred Christian with a choir of white-robed girls lead by one wearing a crown of candles and a red sash.  The Nordiska Museet display put the tradition into complete context and explained in the origin of stjärngossar (star boys); young boys wearing cone-shaped hats decorated with golden stars who now join in the choir procession.

Dancing around the Midsommar pole

The timing of travel plans has caused us to miss celebrating Midsommar, the raucous summer solstice welcoming of long, sunlit days and long, languid vacations to the archipelago. The museum exhibit, however, gave us vicarious pleasure regarding this widely celebrated holiday.

We learned that birthdays are often celebrated with the raising of the Swedish flag.  We now better appreciate the flag-hoisting motivation of our Swedish friend Michael on the king’s birthday; clearly a mixture of national pride and tradition. 

Witches come out on Walpurgis Night

Having centuries of folklore and traditions wrapped up in tidy displays with an accompanying audio guide was worth the Kr. 90 ($13) price of admission (the audio was free).  We recommend to anyone who is beginning a long-term Swedish adventure to visit this permanent exhibit for a quick immersion into Swedish customs. The sight of semlor pastries in store windows and blazing bonfires on Walpurgis Night will instantly be understood.

About the table settings exhibit: we thought that would be boring, but found the display an interesting tour through centuries of Swedish development.  Sweden’s time of Baltic Sea dominance in the 17^th century gave rise to a form of conspicuous consumption rendered in sumptuous meals and opulent table settings, complete with servants.  Take that, you McMansion owners.

It was another great adventure day in Stockholm.  During our hour long walk home we remarked how lucky we are to live in this beautiful and charming city.  We now feel a bit more “at home” knowing some of the rhythms that fill the lives of our neighbors.